When chef, Rowley Leigh, suggested serving a frittedda at our, somewhat premature, 'end of covid' celebratory lunch in June, 2021 I thought he was talking a bout an omelette. I missed the lunch because my daughter came back from London with, guess what, covid, so it was a while before I really familiarised myself with Sicilian frittedda. Since then it's become a family staple and I'm particularly partial to extending the primavera theme by adding a few Jersey Royal or Cornish new potatoes. Obviously fresh peas and beans are best but frozen will still give a pretty good result. Just adjust the cooking times accordingly. I also like to add a little preserved lemon. It's not traditional but, with North Africa just across the Strait of Sicily, it doesn't feel too sacrilegious.
Frittedda is a tasty vegetable stew / salad originating in the Sicilian capital, Palermo. Prepared with fresh broad beans, peas, asparagus and artichokes, it’s a ‘primavera’ classic for spring (in Italy) or early summer in the UK and can truly be called “spring on a plate”. The vegetables are slowly sautéed, and gently shaken rather than stirred in order to preserve the textures and flavours of each ingredient – the sweetness of the peas, the pleasant bitterness of the artichokes, and the nutty flavour of broad beans.
These flavours can be rounded with the addition of agrodolce, sauce made with caramelized sugar and vinegar. Our Frittedda will work with the antipasto, as a side dish with the cheese tart of pork, or a vegetarian main course. Back in Palermo, it is often served with panelle – Sicilian chickpea/gram flour fritters.
My artichokes were so young that no choke had formed at the centre; larger ones will have to be quartered and the chokes carefully removed. Fresh peas can be added to the mix, or as a substitute for asparagus.
The agrodolce sauce (one part sugar dissolved in two parts white wine vinegar and reduced by half) can be gently mixed in, warm, at the end. How much you add is a matter of choice. If you're serving frittedda as a side dish, you don't want it too fierce so keep it minimal. If it's as part of an antipasta platter a stronger agrodolce flavour might be in order.
This rhubarb is almost too good for crumble. It shines when gently poached—just fresh fruit juice and sugar will do. The key is not to overcook it: two to three minutes is plenty. Like toasting pine nuts, turn away for a moment and it’s burnt/overdone! Serve with thick yoghurt and our BFS granola for a simple, elegant breakfast.
For years I thought that anything other than the green Genovese version was sacrilege - until I was introduced to its Sicilian cousin aka Trapanese. Since then, I’ve been swimming with the Trapanesian fishes. The only caveat is that you have to have the right tomatoes. Only the finest and tastiest will do and that definitely doesn’t include cherry - or anything available in the supermarket.
You need that mythical beefsteak tomato some old lady in a french provisioners used to make you a sandwich, one hot afternoon just outside Carcassonne about twenty years ago. As you can tell, it was the highlight of my holiday but I was firmly put in my place a few years later when a friend, who had had a similar experience told me that she had extracted some tomato seeds from said sandwich, smuggled them back to Blighty, germinated and grown them the next year. Now that really must have been a good sandwich.
Anyway, back to the pesto. It’s a simple concoction of peeled and deseeded diced tomatoes (blessed by the lady in black from Carcassonne), blanched almonds, garlic, basil and a little mint. Recipes invariably call for Sicilia or Sardinian pecorino but I reckon it’s best left out of the sauce and grated over the finished dish.
Bright, refreshing, and bursting with citrusy goodness, this fennel and orange salad is a simple yet elegant dish that celebrates seasonal produce. The crisp fennel pairs beautifully with the sweetness of oranges, while the lemon and marmalade dressing adds a zesty twist. Perfect as a light starter or a vibrant side, this salad is a quick and delicious way to elevate your meal.
This Crown Prince and Chard Lasagna is a hearty and satisfying dish that celebrates the natural sweetness of squash and the earthy flavours of chard. Perfect for a cosy dinner, it layers caramelised Crown Prince squash seasoned with warming spices, tender chard, and a rich, creamy white sauce infused with nutmeg and Dijon mustard. Topped with golden parmesan and baked to perfection, this lasagna is a delightful twist on a classic, showcasing the best of seasonal, comforting ingredients. Serve it up for a special family meal or as a delicious vegetarian centrepiece.
My daughter Nell virtually forced this on me when we had lunch at Manteca in Shoreditch (where she works). Vincotta is heavily reduced, pressed, unsieved grape must and is a speciality of Puglia. Rick Stein gave it a shout-out as his secret special ingredient. You don’t see it in South Devon very often but I’d have thought pomegranate molasses would give an equally interesting result. Sprouts have never been my thing – I normally suffer, rather than relish them at Xmas - but I couldn’t stop eating these. They’d work as a small plate or side – but probably not with the trad Christmas dinner - and, if, like me, you’re not big on deep fat frying, work a treat in the Air Fryer.