It’s pheasant and partridge season again. And, however much you might hate having your Saturday afternoons ruined by the incessant sound of shotguns being fired by a bunch of potential psychopaths with more money than sense, they’re going to do it anyway, so we might as well not let good protein go to waste. Pheasants, particularly birds of the not-so-fair sex, are notoriously difficult to cook without drying out, making them ideal candidates for either salmis (flash-roasting, jointing and cooking in a sauce) or sous-vide (low-temperature poaching at 54°C before finishing in a hot oven, under the grill or on the barbecue, probably after jointing). I’ve had the best results going down the sous-vide route, but you need a digitally controlled water bath or an accurate thermometer. I invested in a multifunction Instant Pot, which does the lot, but it’s probably the ugliest appliance ever invented. Gentle poaching (at 54°C) for several hours, or overnight, will soften the collagen without drying the meat. Then joint into breasts, thighs and extremities (wings, carcass and drumsticks). If you have time, make a stock from the bits, reduce it, add flavour, turn down the heat and add the thighs to gently cook through. The breasts can be added at the last minute, or fried or grilled separately. Rabbits also respond well to the sous-vide treatment.