Poaching, as a method of cooking meat, is sadly out of vogue, largely because of the slightly gelatinous, ‘Spam-like’ texture you get in high-collagen cuts like ox tongue, pressed brisket (corned beef) and cotechino, saveloy or zampone type sausages. It’s a bit like Marmite, I love it but it doesn’t seem to do it for most of the UK population. In Europe, where they have a firmer hold on their culinary traditions, it’s still commonly paired with something sharp like salsa verde or mustard. Think bollito misto, cotechino and lentils, or Austrian Tafelspitz.
But with a carefully poached chicken you get perfectly cooked, moist meat suitable for all manner of dishes and, if you give it a blast in a hot oven before serving, it becomes a very superior cheat’s roast, with the added bonus of a saucepan of delicious broth for whatever’s on the menu the next day. Gentle poaching is also the perfect way to cook a slightly more mature organic bird which, it pains me to admit, can be a little dry.
The key is to keep the liquid at a steady simmer (90–95°C) and, if you’re going for the cheat’s roast, to give the skin plenty of time to dry off. I did mine on the sous-vide function in my Instant Pot multi-cooker, but a saucepan and thermometer will work just as well. A tight-fitting lid, so the breasts can steam, is a must. To be extra safe, make a cartouche out of baking parchment.
Using cloves of confit garlic not only gives a lovely mellow garlic flavour, but also helps create a thicker, creamier mayonnaise. Traditionally, aioli was made without egg, making it more of a sauce than a mayonnaise and lacking the yolky yellow colour.
Shamelessly plagiarised and adapted from a recipe on the Riverford website, the combination of nutty brown rice and true spinach works a treat. Old Winchester and Parmesan breadcrumbs bring sweetness and crunch. Served by itself it’s a satisfyingly simple supper or add protein (bacon or ham for example) of your choice.
Using a good dollop of our lemon marmalade and lemon curd, this recipe will turn your excess of leftover hot cross buns into a delicious dessert this Easter.
This rhubarb is almost too good for crumble. It shines when gently poached—just fresh fruit juice and sugar will do. The key is not to overcook it: two to three minutes is plenty. Like toasting pine nuts, turn away for a moment and it’s burnt/overdone! Serve with thick yoghurt and our BFS granola for a simple, elegant breakfast.
The classic Tuscan tomato drenched version isn't the only panzanella in town. Relish broad bean season with this green ciabatta, broad bean and herb panzanella. Perfect for eating alfresco - as a starter or side with barbecued fish, vegetables or chicken. One of our new jarred Persian Feta type cheeses (Graceburn or vegan Haverstock White) would work well instead of the mozzarella as would, if you can find it, burrata. You can also mix things up a little by adding peas, sugar snaps, asparagus etc dor a primavera panzanella.
Our seasonal hero this May is the humble broad bean. For the gardener, autumn sown broad beans should be just ready by the end of the month but Spanish and French will have been around for months. As with peas, you have to be pretty hard core to turn your nose up at frozen but freshly picked and podded, they’re in a league of their own. If you’re lucky enough to get a May harvest, you certainly won’t have to worry about double podding them.
For this simple Rowley recipe, a good quality olive oil and tuna, such as the Ortiz Bonito del Norte (white tuna) are essential. Serve al fresco and with a pale rose.